Since the 19th century, East London has been synonymous with the ‘Rag Trade,’ establishing itself as a hub for the clothing industry and a melting pot for London’s most exciting fashion creatives. Today, East London continues this legacy through the Fashion District and its new initiative, Evo Fashion, which supports emerging local designers and brands, fosters job creation, and spurs product development in the area. Here we meet some of those East London brands who are part of this new programme…
Launched in 2020, Kyle Ho’s creations have been seen on the likes of Ncuti Gatwa, Niall Horan, Layton Williams and, most recently, Callum Howells at the BAFTA’s. With a bespoke approach to its menswear label, with over 60% of the wool used sourced in the UK, the brand is deeply passionate about educating its customers on making more sustainable choices. We chatted to designer and founder, Kyle Ho to find out more…
What inspired you to pursue a career in fashion design?
I never considered becoming a designer when I was young, but there was a turning point when I started creating garments. The most important aspect of being a designer is being able to bring my imagination to life.
Where did you study?
I graduated with an MA in menswear at London College of Fashion.
Can you tell us about your creative process and how you come up your designs?
Interestingly, I listen to classical music while thinking about my designs. Most of the time, I am spacing out while thinking about the creative process.
Do you look at incorporating the latest fashion trends into your designs?
If I was running a commercial brand, yes, I would incorporate the latest fashion trends. However, since I’m running a bespoke tailoring brand, it is good to know what is happening with fashion trends, but it’s not necessary to follow them as they could limit my creativity.
What challenges have you faced and how have you overcome them?
I think that sustaining the brand is of the challenges we face, but I would say that this is the case for most emerging designers. But gratefully, the business survived the pandemic. As advice to other designers, I would say hold on tight; that’s how I have overcome most of the challenges.
Which designers have been the biggest influence on you? Is there anything or anyone outside of fashion that inspires you?
I would say Dries Van Noten is the designer who has influenced me the most because of the way that he incorporates colour is impeccable.
How do you approach sustainability and ethical practices in your designs and production process?
Since establishing our brand, we have prioritised local fabric sourcing. This helps us build a strong local community and support local vendors, and ultimately reduce our carbon footprint.
What are some of the biggest challenges or opportunities you see in the fashion industry today?
The biggest challenge right now is that there is not enough funding and incubation programmes for an emerging designer. Yes, there are many opportunities happening at the moment, and some might be just around the corner; I think we will just have to see what the future holds.
Can you share a memorable moment or achievement in your career so far?
Our presentation at Piccadilly Circus in February is my most memorable moment.
How do you handle criticism or negative feedback on your designs?
I take criticism and negative feedback as the way to challenge our design path.
What do you think is the future of fashion?
When considering the future of fashion, it is important to understand its meaning to us. I don’t have specific predictions for the future of fashion, but ideally, fast fashion will not be mainstream.
How do you envision your brand evolving in the next few years?
Since kicking off our sustainable project called Re: mastered by Kyle Ho, we believe this project can help us move forward to a more sustainable future.
Can you describe your typical work day?
First things first, I definitely start my day with a coffee. If I don’t have one, my brain will not function. Then, I think about my designs on the journey to work and have another coffee around lunchtime. This is how it keeps going. I’m a designer. There is no time to stop working.
Who would you most like to collaborate with?
Potentially, I would like to collaborate with sculptors because I have always believed that fashion can be expressed through multiple mediums.
What role do you think fashion plays in expressing one’s individuality and identity?
Fashion plays a crucial role in expressing individuality because it is not just a garment for me; it is a canvas that imprints our personality and beliefs.
What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?
Don’t be afraid to fail. It is a process because you could become one of the designers who changes the fashion world.
Can you share any personal mantras that guide you?
You’ve got to push yourself as far as possible, and you don’t stop until you reach the goal.
What’s your personal style – how do you choose your outfit each day?
It is always fun for me to choose an outfit to wear every day. I focus on choosing the outfit that forms a perfect silhouette.
Well-known person you’d most like to see wearing your clothes?
Tilda Swinton.
Favourite films for styling and fashion?
Metropolis.
Where in East London do you work & how long?
I have a studio in Bermondsey, but I have been going to LCF in Stratford a few times a week since the new building was established a year ago.
Favourite East London places & things to do?
It may sound a bit cliché, but the Columbia Road Flower Market might be one of my favourite places in East London because you get to see so many different types of flowers and your eyes will never get tired of the beauty. There are also many good cafés around.
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