Since the 19th century, East London has been synonymous with the ‘Rag Trade,’ establishing itself as a hub for the clothing industry and a melting pot for London’s most exciting fashion creatives. Today, East London continues this legacy through the Fashion District and its new initiative, Evo Fashion, which supports emerging local designers and brands, fosters job creation, and spurs product development in the area. Here we meet some of those East London brands who are part of this new programme…
Founded by London College of Fashion alumni Asya Ter-Hovakimyan and Francisco Zhou, the Hackney Wick-based label OMNISS champions a bespoke design process to minimise waste, in addition to transparency in supply chain and local manufacturing. We spoke to Asya to find out more…
What inspired you both to pursue a career in fashion design?
I came to fashion through my love of making. My mum was a big believer in handcraft being an essential part of the curriculum for sustainable development of children, so I started learning Armenian embroidery techniques at the age of five. By the age of 10 I really wanted to make something wearable. For my co-founder Francisco Zhou, who played in a rock band as a teen, fashion was a form of self-expression and there was a strong link between music and fashion that pushed him in this direction.
Can you tell us about your creative process and how you come up your designs?
Our creative process is very fluid and varies from season to season. We actually try to be open minded in different ways to approach design, depending on the theme and overall direction of the collection. Last season, for example, a big part of the collection was inspired by the thrifted pieces we would find so the linear approach of “draw-sample-pattern-test-finalise” didn’t work effectively. Instead, we gave prompts to Mid Journey (AI-tool on Discord) and turned the process upside down. A big part of any process is testing 3D prototypes and materials, but also questioning sustainability in the design.
Do you look at incorporating the latest fashion trends into your designs?
We don’t specifically look at trend forecasts, but sometimes designers are influenced by their surroundings. We would love OMNISS to be known as a brand where you come for unique but timeless pieces – that is true sustainability beyond the seams.
What challenges have you faced and how have you overcome them?
Running a fashion brand or doing anything creative in the current economy is one big challenge. Entrepreneurship is an everyday quest to overcome and solve something usually with limited time and budget. One of my biggest challenges was getting a Graduate Entrepreneur Visa back in 2019 to be able to stay in the UK and run my business.
Do you both always agree or find it easy to work through any disagreements?
I don’t think there has been a design-duo that disagrees as often as we do. But I think that’s what makes us special – we are not immersed in our imaginary worlds where we always agree and praise each other’s ideas with no touchpoint with reality. Instead, each of us is always ready to give the harsh truth and push for better outcomes and solutions.
Which designers have been the biggest influence on you? Is there anything or anyone outside of fashion that inspires you?
I admire different designers for different aspects of their work, and it is hard to name one big influence as fashion is a lot about time and context. Outside fashion, I am inspired by people that have vision and have the courage to bring it to life and change the world.
How do you approach sustainability and ethical practices in your designs and production process?
It is constant work in progress. Every season we make active choices and decisions that improve and shift OMNISS to the ideal version we have in mind. At present, 80% of our fabrics are certified, natural fibres and 30% of our products use upcycled or recycled materials in one way or another. 100% of our products are made ethically and the makers involved in the processed are paid fairly at the London Living Wages (or higher).
What are some of the biggest challenges or opportunities you see in the fashion industry today?
It is a challenging time to be a designer (someone who is supposed to bring new products to life) as the main narrative of the time is that we don’t need any more products in our lives. I question my role and my skills a lot. One of the opportunities that came my way while working with another brand as freelancer was to do specialist alterations and repairs. This has now become a full-blown side of our business, OMNIFIX, and there’s constant need for it.
Can you share a memorable moment or achievement in your career so far?
Our debut at London Fashion Week with Fashion Scout in 2019 was definitely one of the highlights.
How do you handle criticism or negative feedback on your designs?
It is not very common for people to give feedback or criticism so whenever we get any, we are happy to have conversation around that. There is no real growth without being open to feedback.
What do you think is the future of fashion?
The Future of Fashion is circular.
How do you envision your brand evolving in the next few years?
We are open to learning, collaborations and positive change so the brand will definitely evolve, but we would love to build a recognisable aesthetics and community around the brand.
Can you describe your typical work day?
A typical workday starts with oat flat white and is then non-stop 10 hours in our studio in Hackney Wick, split between fittings and customer interactions, team meetings and strategy decisions, managing interns and seamstresses, answering questions, and making sure everyone is happy and enjoying their time in the studio.
Who would you most like to collaborate with?
I have a list of dream collaborations, including VANS x OMNISS and special flavour doughnuts OMNISS x Crosstown.
What role do you think fashion plays in expressing one’s individuality and identity?
Fashion is a means of self-expression and ‘coded’ language is one of my favourite subjects to explore. That’s what I love about fashion – how meaningful objects become in the everyday context and how the wearer uses these objects to communicate messages, be it actively or passively.
What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?
Learn the rules of making, tailoring and any other hand craft, understand the garments construction and textiles, learn fashion history and the context of each designers’ work. Stay focused and ready to learn!
Can you share any personal mantras that guide you?
‘At least I tried’ is one of my key mantras, and I often remind myself of this.
What’s your personal style – how do you choose your outfit each day?
My personal style prioritises comfort over anything else. I wear OMNISS t-shirts, shirts, sweatshirts and sweaters quite often with made-to-measure trousers, but I do also love statement shoes.
Well-known person you’d most like to see wearing your clothes?
It is a hard choice, but I’d say Rhianna and Harry Styles are definitely both on the list.
What are your favourite films for styling and fashion?
Blow-up depicts the 60s in a very glamorous way. The Rocket Man is also an awesome reminder of all the crazy-fun looks of Elton John.
Where in East London do you work & how long?
The Trampery at Fish Island Village in Hackney Wick. We have been there since December 2022 and loving the community here!
Favourite East London places & things to do?
Columbia Road Flower Market for Sunday activity, Billingsgate Market trip and then BBQ at my East London home over any restaurants. And coffee from our local gem Inis!
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