BY KELLY BESWICK
I rarely venture to Stratford from Stokey, aside from the occasional grudging foray to Westfield, usually around Christmas time for stressful, last minute shopping. But I can wholeheartedly tell you that having recently stepped outside its famed shopping mall to explore what was once the site of the London Olympics, I am a complete and utter convert to the place.
Gosh, what a brilliant transformation, with bars, eateries and cafés a plenty while an Everyman cinema, V&A museum and Sadler’s Wells theatre bring a distinct cultural vibe. No wonder the place was buzzing on the sunny mid-week afternoon of our visit, with news of an excellent new wine bar cum restaurant finally tempting us to visit this once over-looked area.
Well, I am pleased to report that Templar, for that is the name of the establishment, certainly lived up to expectations. Located on Redman Place, right in the heart of what is now known as Stratford Cross, and next door to the previously mentioned Everyman, Templar is a good-looking, relaxed space that immediately draws you in. Indeed, it exudes a quiet confidence that belies its relative youth, but then again, its founders are seasoned hands in the hospitality game, having worked everywhere from Soho House to the OXO Tower, before joining forces ten years ago to open the acclaimed restaurant, Darkhorse, located just a stone’s throw from Templar in Stratford’s East Village.
As a much younger sibling, Templar has yet to earn its acclaim, but from what we experienced on our visit, it really won’t be long. From the laid-back, friendly, but very attentive front of house to the delicious array of dishes that arrived effortlessly from the kitchen, courtesy of head chef Richard Sinclair, previously of Pied à Terre fame, everything was spot on.
Feeling somewhat decadent, we decided to kick off proceedings with a glass of crisp, cold prosecco accompanied by half a dozen Maldon oysters with a shallot vinaigrette. So fresh were the bivalves they could have just been plucked from the sea and subsequently slipped down far too easily.
Next up we opted for two small plates to share, namely taramasalata with radish and crispy focaccia and the sea bass crudo, topped with Amalfi lemon, cucumber and wild Kentish fennel. Both dishes arrived looking as pretty as a picture, not that that stopped us demolishing them both with indecent haste, they were that good! At this point, and at our server’s suggestion, we had moved on to a delightful bottle of Verdejo, with an ecológico status that perfectly chimed with Templar’s low-intervention wine policy. It was a choice that further helped showcase the dishes; not that further showcasing was really required.
Such are the Desperate Dan size portions of the large plates that we easily could have shared one, but in the interests of a fully rounded review we chose the chicken Milanese with wild rocket, Parmesan and grilled lemon and the 350g charred black pig chop with Tropea onion, cider and pepper sauce. Often a tad too dry, the chicken Milanese here was moist and succulent, with a breadcrumb coating packed with flavour. And as for that pork chop, well wow, just wow! When I go back, yes, because a return visit is a given, I might just have to order it again. Our accompanying chips and courgettes, while both exemplary, were rather overshadowed by the sheer heft of the mains.
Dessert should have been shunned, but what harm could an affogato of salted caramel ice cream to share do? Well quite a lot when accompanied by two glasses of Frangelico, an Italian hazelnut liqueur that tastes divine and was knocked back far too easily.
Our meal complete, we thanked our server and slip out into a Stratford we never thought possible. A wasteland to wonderland indeed!
Templar, 5 Redman Place (The Turing Building) Stratford, London E20 1JQ
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