A foodie friend recently tipped us off about Songbird in Canary Wharf, and she’s rarely wrong, so off we went to see for ourselves.
Housed in an imposing warehouse-style building alongside the water, within the site of the Troubadour theatre, the restaurant makes quite an entrance, and once inside, there’s a welcome sense of escapism from the glass-and-steel bustle of Canary Wharf. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame views across the water towards the O2, with cosy houseboats bobbing nearby, while the interiors, designed by Rachel Gowdridge, whose work includes The Hoxton and Gleneagles Hotel, bring warmth and a touch of nature to the space.
The industrial bones of the building are very much on show, with exposed ductwork and dark steel beams providing a striking contrast to the greenery spilling throughout the restaurant. Patterned banquettes, jewel-toned accents and sculptural lighting bring plenty of personality, while the big windows make the most of those lovely waterside views. It’s an interesting mix of urban edge and leafy hideaway, and one that gives Songbird a character all of its own.
We kicked things off at the circular marble bar, where our cheery mixologist mixed us up a couple of cocktails. I went for the aptly named Songbird, a floral, beautifully balanced blend of London dry gin, elderflower cordial, dry vermouth and lemon bitters, while my friend, in need of something restorative after the night before, opted for the Bramble Garden, a refreshing, fruity mix of sloe gin, blackberry liqueur, lemon and fresh berries. Both hit the spot.
Settled at a table beside those magnificent windows, with a soundtrack that moved from classic rock to timeless pop favourites, we started with freshly shucked Maldon oysters, accompanied by a glass of Chapel Down fizz from the restaurant’s oyster pairing menu. A cracking start. But the real revelation was the devilled eggs with miso mayonnaise, trout roe and chives. Spotted on another table and swiftly ordered, they were quite possibly the best devilled eggs I’ve ever tasted.
Next up, the much-recommended lobster roll, generously filled with lobster and topped with dill mayonnaise, caviar and charred lemon, alongside a portion of fries. Utterly delicious. The steak sandwich was every bit as good: tender, flavour-packed 5oz dry-aged rump, confit garlic butter, bitter leaf salad and all tucked into soft, pillowy focaccia, with excellent crispy fries on the side. Both sandwiches were so good that sharing half of each was the only sensible option.
Dessert felt like a step too far, but our friendly, helpful server persuaded us to take the citrus St Clements cheesecake home instead. A decision we were both rather pleased with.
Songbirdrestaurant.com
Canary Wharf, 2 Cartier Circle, London E14 5HF
(The Wood Wharf exit from the Elizabeth line is particularly handy)
Two-course pre-theatre menu for £31
