BY KELLY BESWICK
If it wasn’t for a bunch of squatters some 45 years ago, Galvin La Chapelle, the much-vaunted Michelin-starred restaurant, would not occupy the Grade II-listed former school hall of St Botolph’s, a fabulous setting that perfectly matches the fabulous food on offer. Indeed, this Gothic wonder would probably be a non-descript office block if developers had had their way. However, those squatters – a ragtag band of passionate locals, ardent supporters and committed trustees of the building – had staged an impromptu sit-in upon witnessing bulldozers pulling up outside ready to begin demolition. Thankfully their efforts paid off, and today dining on sublime French cuisine in such a magnificent space has got to be up there as one of London’s best gastronomic experiences.
Not that La Chapelle displays any of the stuffiness and pretension that’s so often found in such fine dining establishments. Yes, it has the bells and whistles you’d expect, from the starched white tablecloths to the huge, glass-cloched cheese trolley, but there’s a warmth and integrity that emanates from the attentive staff and shines through in the amazing food we sampled.
On this occasion, we were here to try the set-lunch menu, which runs throughout the summer months and at £55 for three memorable courses, is a much more affordable option than the usual a la carte. Price does not impact quality and generosity, however, as evidenced by the moreish amuse bouche and hefty chunks of freshly baked bread and irresistible salted French butter that arrived just before our starters.
I’d opted for the duck liver Royal, which came as a cocoa soil-coated sphere, delicately garnished with poached peach and Sauterne jelly cubes. The chocolate element of the dish was both surprising and delicious, perfectly complimenting the silky smooth, indecently rich pate within. My dining companion, meanwhile, had chosen the Orkney scallop lasagne, which was unlike any lasagne I’ve ever seen, with the bivalve hidden beneath a wispy sheet of pasta, drizzled with a Amalfi lemon and cacao & pepe style sauce, topped with a disc of compressed Sicilian prawns. Suffice to say, she declared it delicate, subtly sweet and utterly delicious.At the start of our lunch, we had decided to let the sommelier choose the best wines for each dish, and her choices did not disappoint. From the Champagne aperitif with which we kicked off to the Gewürztraminer and Pecorino that proved a perfect match to our appetisers, we were definitely in full swing by the time we’d got to our mains.
Sticking with the seafood theme, my friend had ordered wild halibut, which came with a stuffed courgette flower, plankton and a sauce meuniére, while I had settled on the free-range chicken ballotine, complete with bell pepper, cherry tomato and Cantarbrian anchovy. Both dishes could not be faulted, with the fish cooked to perfection, while the ballotine was meltingly moist and packed a powerful flavour punch, partly thanks to the anchovy-infused sauce. As if things couldn’t get any better, along came a glass of Tavel rosé and a ruby red Cheverny to elevate the dishes even further.
As our luncheon drew to a close, I decided to finish on a light note, picking the watermelon daiquiri for dessert. This came in a glass, with a strawberry jelly bottom containing delightful splinters of meringue and pops of watermelon, while on top was the airiest of mousses, flavoured with Pimms and kaffir lime. My friend, who usually opts for cheese over dessert, decided to go down a somewhat unusual route on this occasion, ordering a Gorgonzola millefeuille of all things! Accompanied by fermented cherry Espelette pepper and fig leaf oil, it was deemed a triumph, and one that I will be trying on our next visit.
Looking around our stunning surroundings one last time before departing, it’s incredible to think this beautifully ornate Victorian school hall was so close to being destroyed. But now, rather than serving school dinners, it’s home to some of the finest food in town.
Galvin La Chapelle, 35 Spital Square, Spitalfields, London E1 6DY
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