BY KELLY BESWICK
Back in the 90s anyone who was anyone was busy bagging a table at the restaurant du jour, the Bluebird, housed in the fabulous Grade II listed art deco garage complex built for the Bluebird Motor Company back in 1923 on the Kings Road, Chelsea. It wasn’t just the setting that impressed, however, with the food at the vanguard of modern British cuisine at its very best. But then again, you wouldn’t expect anything less from the late, great Sir Terence Conran, the designer turned restaurateur extraordinaire. Still occupying pride of place nearly 30 years on, it was high time that this iconic eatery hatched a fledging, and it just has, which lucky for us is located within the South Place Hotel, just a stone’s throw from Moorgate and Liverpool Street stations.
Like its Chelsea counterpart, this city-based incarnation boasts an impressive terrace, which looked rather busy on the sunny mid-week day of our visit. We, however had opted to sit inside, but the large floor to ceiling windows meant we had all the advantages of people watching, without the heat and insects that often accompanies al fresco dining. Like the hotel itself, the restaurant is contemporary and stylish without being stuffy, and we were quickly seated at our corner table with a glass of Champagne in hand, perusing the menu.
I could have easily ordered all of the starters, which sounded delicious, but I managed to narrow it down to the Cornish White Crab Toast, while my dining companion opted for the Steak Tartare. They duly arrived, along with a cheeky bottle of Rioja, and very lovely they looked too. My carefully picked over crustacean came atop a circle of brioche, an avocado wasabi emulsion, slithers of Granny Smith apple and edible cornflowers as garnish. As pretty as it looked, it was all too hastily demolished, being balanced and delicately flavoured and very, very moreish. Meanwhile, my friend’s plate of raw, diced beef came in a large disc accompanied by watermelon, pickled fennel and basil aioli, with a garlic flatbread generously thrown in to mop up the juices. Again, a clean plate was evidence of its avowed deliciousness.
With our appetites now very much whetted for the main course, and the wine and conversation both flowing freely, it wasn’t long before we were greeted with my Flat Iron Steak and a Swordfish Loin for the lovely lady sitting opposite. Hers glistened in an orange and chilli glaze and was promptly announced to be cooked to perfection. I tried a piece and I can absolutely concur – soft and buttery, with a wonderful tang from the glaze, and so unlike the dry and chewy offering that so often passes for this fish. Meanwhile, my option, which was evidently 21 days house dry aged and grass-fed, was grilled on the Josper, again to perfection. Wonderfully seasoned and just the right side of bloody, it almost seemed a shame to slather it in the side of Béarnaise sauce, but only almost, with the sauce adding to the decadence. We shared delightfully crispy French Fries and Fine Green Beans stir-fried with confit shallots, and honestly, we should have stopped there. But obviously we didn’t, having decided to share the Bluebird Cheese Board. Upon which we were presented with an incredibly generous platter consisting of Tomme De Savoie, Morbier Bichonne, Kidderton Ash, Baron Bigod, Colston Bassett Stilton alongside grapes, quince and crackers.
At this point, with the wine consumed and following a tip off from someone in the know, we ordered a Lillet Rosé Spritz to accompany the cheese. If, like me, you are unfamiliar with the Lillet brand, it’s a French wine-based aperitif that dates back to 1872 and is currently having a bit of resurgence. And I can see why, if the cocktails we sipped were anything to go by, with Mediterranean tonic and a sprig of thyme bringing out the unique flavour of the Lillet Rosé.
With only one table of fellow diners left, the time had come for us to leave, safe in the knowledge that the South Place Hotel has another great string to it’s bow, as if an amazing rooftop terrace, a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant and a charming Secret Garden Bar wasn’t enough!
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Want to take your Bluebird experience up a notch? Say hello to The Bluebird Club – the members-only club from The Evolv Collection, the hospitality heavyweights behind some of the UK’s most iconic dining spots (founded by design legend Sir Terence Conran, no less). Sign up and you’ll unlock priority access to sleek private lounges at Bluebird Chelsea and South Place Hotel, plus a load of tasty perks across their restaurants in London, Birmingham, Manchester, and even New York. Oh, and did we mention the Michelin-starred Angler is in the mix? Basically, if you like your dining scene a little more exclusive, this one’s for you.
bluebirdcity.com
Bluebird City
South Place Hotel
3 South Place, London EC2M 2AF
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