Since the 19th century, East London has been synonymous with the ‘Rag Trade,’ establishing itself as a hub for the clothing industry and a melting pot for London’s most exciting fashion creatives. Today, East London continues this legacy through the Fashion District and its new initiative, Evo Fashion, which supports emerging local designers and brands, fosters job creation, and spurs product development in the area. Here we meet some of those East London brands who are part of this new programme…
Talented handbag designer and founder of Isla de Gar Emma Garner talks about her unique design process, the challenges she has faced, and her commitment to sustainability.
What inspired you to pursue a career as a handbag designer?
I discovered my passion for designing handbags during my placement year at university. I worked with a sustainable slow fashion brand called Titania Inglis. There were only two of us interning at her very cool warehouse studio in Brooklyn, NYC and I was obsessed with the environment – small scale, hands-on, making the products with care at a slow pace, in an intimate environment. It felt so raw and beautiful. Titania began teaching me how to make bags, so I was able to transfer my 3D surface skills from my Textiles Degree into a product, and I feel I found my thing. My final degree project was a handbag collection that ended up winning two awards. I soon landed a job as Handbag Design Assistant at AllSaints after graduating.
Can you tell us about your creative process and how you come up your designs?
Manipulating materials comes first. Designing through making rather than a 2D sketch. Natural organic forms combined with modern architecture and sculptures have always inspired my work, hence the bags being named after habitats. I start with a rough vision/bag shape, start crocheting it and noticing how it takes shape, an idea might spark when I see the form move as I manipulate it and play with the construction.
A passion for bags, sculpture and bringing something new and beautiful into the world has driven me to start IDG. Our bags won’t ever look like anything else out there, and we pride ourselves on our innovation by thinking laterally. We focus on minimal hardware with less fuss – the straps aren’t adjustable to avoid unnecessary hooks and O-rings, yet we offer different sizes. Using as little joining methods/stitching as possible, which has always been the focus throughout my work. I wanted to create a luxurious product and stand out from craft crochet that is commonly known. I also wanted to use a thick needle and a chunkier yarn or trim, and use something that you wouldn’t find in crochet.
Do you look at incorporating the latest fashion trends into your designs?
We’re always aware of what’s out there but strive more for individuality and bringing to the community – something they didn’t realise they knew until seeing our art sculptures (i.e. bags). To be a successful brand, trends are always important, but what’s more important is how you interpret them.
What challenges have you faced and how have you overcome them?
Back at the end of 2022 we were hit with a trademark infringement which resulted in us changing our name. This was a really tough time in the business and set us back a lot of money dealing with lawyers, changing the branding on our packaging and liaising with stockists to re-name our stock. However, we soon turned it into a positive and saw it as a chance to elevate the brand through the name, logo, packaging etc.
A huge challenge I’m facing this year is taking the brand to the next level. Having come from a design background with zero business, marketing or branding knowledge, I’ve grown the brand organically for the past 3.5 years having only invested £500 of my own money. The creative, visual elements of the business come so naturally to me (the bag designs, Instagram etc), but this year I’m reaching out to my contacts asking for advice and learning how to become an entrepreneur who wants to grow a medium-sized profitable business.
Which designers have been the biggest influence on you? Is there anything or anyone outside of fashion that inspires you?
Artists are a constant inspiration. Hannah Carrick’s Poolside painting embodies the whole meaning of Isla de Gar, which translates to Island of Gar(ner), my surname. Transporting yourself to your very own island, wherever that may be, whatever that may look like – your bag can take you there, metaphorically.
How do you approach sustainability and ethical practices in your designs and production process?
Focus on what’s important to me and the brand’s mission and take it one step at a time, you cannot tackle everything at once and won’t achieve anything by doing this. Producing as little waste as possible is really important to me, hence our made to order business model. We never overproduce bags and have extremely low waste as the bag is a mono material – if we make a mistake, it can simply be unravelled and remade using the same ribbon.
Can you share a memorable moment or achievement in your career so far?
Popping up in Selfridges with Salad Days Market back in 2021 (only eight months after launching in lockdown) was an unbelievable experience. Since graduating I knew I was going to have my own brand and envisioned my bags in Selfridges but hadn’t anticipated it would happen so soon.
How do you handle criticism or negative feedback on your designs?
You soon realise they’re not your customer to begin with.
How do you envision your brand evolving in the next few years?
Long term our goal is to become a global handbag brand. Over the next few years, we’ll slowly grow the production team in our London studio, maintaining a made-to-order business model. Our next step is to grow presence in Asia as the bags are performing well in Hong Kong, thanks to our stockist Mary who runs Hey You Living. We then plan to expand into the US next year.
Who would you most like to collaborate with?
I’d love to spend a day with Johnathan Anderson. Not so much collaborate but to understand how his mind works artistically with Loewe and JW Anderson.
What role do you think handbags play in expressing one’s individuality and identity?
They elevate and lift an outfit, rather than compliment, and essentially they become the focal piece. They’re also an heirloom as well as wearable sculpture.
What advice do you have for aspiring handbag designers?
It’s a competitive industry so be clear about your vision, story and create something new and innovative. It’s also important to listen to your customers.
What’s your personal style – how do you choose your outfit each day?
It’s very minimal and chic (when I have time!). I get constant outfit inspiration from Lizzy Hadfield.
Well-known person you’d most like to see with your handbags?
Harry Styles in our White Hive Crossbody with a Red Heart on the front!
Where in East London do you work & how long?
In a block of studios called The Trampery in Hackney Wick. We’ve been here since August last year.
Favourite East London places & things to do?
I haven’t been able explore East as much as I’d have liked to but am a huge fan of supporting local and independents. Inis is a new restaurant opened only last month in our Trampery studio space run by partners Lindsay and Lynsey. It’s fresh, good quality food and has lovely customer service.
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