London doesn’t exactly suffer from a shortage of brunches – but every now and then, one arrives with such unapologetic flair that it forces you to put down the avocado toast and pay attention. Enter The Marlene Brunch at Engel Bar, the new Saturday ritual running from noon to 4pm, perched above the Royal Exchange like a jewel box of old-world glamour.
We arrived just as the final fanfare of the Lord Mayor’s Show drifted past the Exchange below – about as theatrical a prologue as you could ask for, before ascending to Engel’s first floor, where the room instantly slips you into a 1920s reverie. Velvet, brass, soft lamplight; it’s got that rare ability to make you feel like you’ve wandered onto the set of a very chic period film.
The spell tightens once the music begins. Jazz singer Atila and his band ease into the room with warm, velvety shades of Sinatra and Nat King Cole – a soundtrack that makes a glass of Ruinart Champagne and a peach Bellini feel less like drinks and more like essential props.
The kitchen, led by Chefs Samantha Williams and Lorena Tommassi, sends out a three-course brunch that’s both classic and quietly indulgent. Eggs Benedict arrive perfectly poised – Brunswick ham on an English muffin with hollandaise and smoked paprika oil – creamy and silky in every bite. The salmon tartare atop avocado paired with a crisp nori cracker and a dustin of spicy shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven-spice), hits that sweet spot of freshness with a measured kick of spice.
But it’s the mains where things shift from “very good brunch” to “why isn’t this dinner?” The pan-fried sea bass is the star: glazed with yuzu and soy, set over a silky cauliflower purée, flanked by charred cauliflower leaves, samphire and grilled broccoli. Every element lands, every bite pops, and the whole plate disappears before you’re willing to admit you’ve finished it. Across the table, the buttermilk fried chicken waffle arrives in full swagger – crispy bacon, maple syrup, and just a whisper of Sriracha mayo.
Dessert keeps the energy high. A matcha cheesecake with a biscuit base and fresh berries gets a glossy berry coulis poured tableside; the light as air brioche French toast rested on a dusting of matcha, with mint, honeycomb and maple-glazed and crowned with berries was decadent yet weightless. A pot of jasmine tea brings things back to earth just as the afternoon light begins to fade.
By the time we stepped back out into the City, we were warm, full, and lightly buoyed by jazz and bubbles – a state that should probably come with its own prescription label. If your ideal Saturday involves a little luxury, a little theatre, and a lot of very good food, The Marlene Brunch might just be your new weekend habit.
Brunch starts at £45 for two courses, £50 for three, with bottomless Prosecco, Bellinis, or Spritzes for £30 (90 minutes). Champagne lovers, take note: Ruinart at half price is happening right now – best enjoy it before someone comes to their senses!
Engel Bar – The Mezzanine, Royal Exchange, London EC3V 3LQ
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