BY KELLY BESWICK
Let’s face it, January can be pretty grim – cold, wet and windy, with assorted viruses spreading like wildfire, and don’t even get me started on the state of the world right now! However, for a brief moment, two days before February finally rolled in, we were transported to a far better place, and that’s all thanks to Origin City, a restaurant that manages to be pitch perfect in every way.
Located on West Smithfield, just opposite the Smithfield Rotunda Garden and the famous Smithfield meat market, that will sadly close its gates for a final time in 2028, Origin City is named after the fact that the provenance of nearly everything it serves can be traced back to three sources. That’s down to the restaurant’s owners, the Landsberg family, who just happen to have a 600-acre organic estate in Argyll as well as a Loch Fyne oyster farm and a vineyard in Provence, so I guess that’s all bases covered as far as meat, seafood and wine are concerned.
However, such fine ingredients can easily be rendered mediocre in the wrong hands, but rest-assured, head chef Graham Chatham knows exactly what he is doing, and then some. Chatham is a huge proponent of nose-to-tail dining, which admittedly, is not a new concept, having been trail blazed by Fergus Henderson at nearby St John several decades ago. But here Chatham imparts a distinct style and sophistication to the ethos, creating a truly fine dining experience that will linger in the memory, long after your plate has been cleared.
On our lunchtime visit, the elegant, inviting dining room was already packed with a mixture of business types, couples and even several families, all very clearly enjoying themselves. We were sat in a spacious, comfortable booth to the side, which while taking us away from the main action, did make us feel cosseted and special, with our attentive and informative waiter further adding to the sense of occasion. At his suggestion we kicked off proceedings with a delicious glass of fizz, a Luna Blanc-Rolle/Viognier from Provence, while nibbling on the complimentary house sourdough slathered in a umami-rich ‘nduja butter.
Next up, I’d opted for the grilled Scottish langoustines with garlic and herb butter, which came in plentiful supply and were so delicate and sweet, as if freshly plucked out of the sea. My dining companion, meanwhile, chose the cold roast Hogget shoulder, as her starter and which she promptly declared to be ‘marvellous’, served with anchovy dressing, old Winchester cheese and apple. By this point our flutes had been swapped for some rather impressive wine glasses, with our waiter pouring us a very fine red, again his recommendation. It was a Chateau de la Cômbe – Cuvée St Georges in case you were wondering, and it was so darn good we subsequently went on to order a case from Origin City’s sister wine shop/bar, 56WS, which just happens to be across the road.
By the time our mains arrived, we knew we were on to a very good thing, and suffice to say they did not disappoint. My grilled Texel hogget leg steak came pink and oh-so-tender, accompanied by a gorgeous little shepherd’s pie made from the trimmings, as well as a breaded disc of deep-fried lamb breast. Swede puree, salt-baked swede, creamy savoy cabbage and a silky, rich sauce helped bring everything together. Our knowledgeable waiter, meanwhile, had steered my adventurous dining companion towards the grilled ox liver, which he described as ‘interesting’ and was listed as a special. Well very special it turned out to be – wonderfully soft and flavoursome, nestled on a bed of the most unctuous celeriac puree, with braised shallot, grilled baby gem, savoury granola and a roasted heritage carrot as accompaniment.
At this juncture, suffice to say we were pretty full, but we reckoned we could just about manage the cheese of the day to share. The oozing slice of Baron Bigod proved to be the perfect end to a perfect meal, leaving us feeling all was right with the world, albeit only fleetingly.
Origin City, 12 West Smithfield, EC1A 9JR, 020 4568 6240
origincity.co.uk
READ THIS ISSUE OF BEAST MAGAZINE
Tag us with your copy of Beast magazine @beastmag_london on Instagram