BY KELLY BESWICK
Opulent, flamboyant, extravagant, camp and theatrical… these are just a few of the adjectives that spring to mind when attempting to describe the glamorous, yet eccentric interior of Jacuzzi, the Big Mamma group’s latest temple to fine Italian dining (the company’s 28th trattoria, which are spread over seven countries, with this being its sixth UK venture).
Located over four floors, providing seating for up to 170 people and occupying a prime location on High Street Kensington, Jacuzzi is the embodiment of the belief that more is more. Heck, it even has a tree growing in its ground floor dining room, alongside numerous Roman-style statues and shelves heaving with colouful Murano glass ornaments and ceilings laden with twinkly Murano glass chandeliers.
But what about the food, I hear you cry! And admittedly, I initially thought this was going to be a case of ‘all fur coat and no knickers’, my late father’s delightful way of describing something impressive on the surface, but lacking in real substance. Well, I am pleased to report it was not! The food here is actually very good, mostly authentic Italian, with a menu that features all of the classics, but with some pimped up with lobster, truffle and caviar to appeal to the more minted, of which there are quite a few around these parts.
Seated on a sumptuous red velvet, corner banquette, with a fine view of our fellow diners and the aforementioned tree, the place was fairly buzzing on our mid-week lunchtime visit. We kicked off proceedings with an obligatory glass of champagne while we perused the extensive menu, finally opting for crab croquettes with lemon mayo and a vitello tonnato to share as starters. Service was friendly and efficient, with our dishes arriving with our glasses still half full.
The croquettes were three plump pillows of deliciousness, crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth oozy within, with a generous portion of crabmeat atop and drizzled with the mayonnaise. The tonatto, meanwhile, was not as expected, having been reimagined as a tartare, finely chopped with shallots and capers, topped with a soft-boiled quail egg and an accompanying sourdough crostini to scoop it up. We most certainly were not complaining, with the plate very quickly wiped clean.
By this point, we had moved on to a highly quaffable Montepulciano to enjoy with our mains, a puttanesca for my dining companion and saltimbocca alla Romana for me. The bold and punchy pasta, whose name famously translates as ‘in the style of a prostitute’, arrived in a mound upon the plate, with fresh tuna tartare adding further depth to the customary tomato sauce, olives, capers and anchovies. Such was the portion size, it could have probably fed an entire brothel, but my friend wasn’t about to give up that easily, and almost succeeded in demolishing the lot! As for my English rosé veal, wrapped in crispy prosciutto and sage, it was as tender as could be with a decadently rich Marsala sauce taking the flavour profile up several notches higher. Our sides of crispy potatoes and charred courgette salad were perfectly lovely, but a bit superfluous in hindsight.
We pleaded with our waiter not to tempt us with dessert, really we did, but he was having none of it, and duly brought over a huge wedge of tiramisu for us to share. Of course the creamy, coffee infused confection proved hard to resist, but after a couple of mouthfuls each, I’m ashamed to say we were defeated.
Sitting there, fully sated and reflecting on the restaurant’s somewhat unusual name, we came to the conclusion it is perfectly apt. It’s a word that makes you think of over-the-top luxury, yet warm and inviting, and that is exactly what the restaurant is.
Jacuzzi, 94 Kensington High St, London W8 4SG
bigmammagroup.com
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