BY KELLY BESWICK
First off Graham, can you tell us a bit about your background, where you’re originally from, what your family was like?
I grew up in a small village called Westhead, which is a rural community in Lancashire. My mother’s family were involved in pig farming, and so we had strong connections to the farms locally, and I would spend every holiday working on the farms, doing different jobs. Fresh food was a big part of family life – I didn’t know what a fish finger was until I was about 12 and at a friend’s house!
So food was a prominent factor in your childhood?
Absolutely! As kids we always had to get involved with preparing the meals. We would be sent to the local farm shop, of which there were quite a few in the village. Some things were more fun than others – pea podding was my favourite, as I’d sneakily eat loads of the peas. We often had offal for meals – kidneys, livers etc. which were just a normal part of how we ate, and I still enjoy to this day.
What is your earliest food memory?
Not necessarily the earliest, but one that sticks out from my childhood is soft serve ice cream – I just couldn’t get enough!
Was becoming a chef on your radar from a young age?
Not at all – I wanted to be in the Royal Marines, but in those days there was a minimum height required, which I knew I would never meet.
How did you initially get in to the profession then?
After the Royal Marines was out of the picture, my father told me that I needed to go and do something with my life. I happened to see an advert in the local paper for a chef’s course at Bournemouth and Poole College.
When starting out, who did you most admire in your profession and how did they influence you?
As a young chef starting out in the late 80s/early 90s, it was all about Marco Pierre White. I remember picking up that book, White Heat, and thinking that I’d never be able to do anything like that. However, over the years I would like to think I’ve honed my skills, enabling me to work in some of the best establishments in the UK. I have also been a member of the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts for many years, supporting youngster coming into the industry through the apprenticeship scheme.
Can you briefly talk me through your career trajectory?
Having worked in the industry since 1989, I have been lucky enough to work in a lot of top 5* hotels and Michelin star restaurants. I’ve built up a lot of experience working with high quality produce, traditional British cuisine, and complicated supply chains, at places such as The Langham Hotel, Rules, and Daylesford Organic. So when the opportunity arose to build all this from scratch at Origin City it seemed too good to pass up.
Has nose-to-tail dining always been big part of your cheffing ethos?
Yes, of course. I’ve always advocated using every part of the animal, out of respect for the animals and it’s a challenge that requires a creative and considered approach to solve. I like to think I’ve done that consistently over the years.
Congratulations on your recent promotion to Chef Patron at Origin City. What does the promotion mean to you and what does the new role entail?
Thank you very much for your kind words. Having worked on the opening of Origin City and refining our complex supply chain as Executive Chef, I am thrilled and excited to take on overall responsibility for our sister wine bar, 56 West Smithfield, and newly opened farm shop just next door to the restaurant. There are lots of exciting things coming up, so watch this space!
How closely do you work with the Landsberg family, who own the restaurant and supply much of the fish and meat from their Scottish estate and seafood business?
Being a small family business, there is of course a vision from the Landsberg family that I have to be able to understand and interpret onto the plate.
I’m assuming you have visited their estate in Scotland, what is it like?
It’s very much a working farm, with everything that comes along with that. What strikes you immediately is the passion from the farm manager for the animals and their welfare. What hits you second is the smell.
In one sentence, can you describe the food you serve at Origin City?
From the first delivery I took of lamb, pig and beef carcasses from the farm, I realised my task was to show absolute respect for these animals, and the way we do that at Origin is to be true to our ethos of ‘great taste, no waste’.
How frequently do you change your menu, and what factors influence your dishes?
We change our menu regularly, and it is highly seasonal. The biggest influence on the menu is our supply chain – in line with our farm-to-fork ethos, with all of our meat coming from the family farm in Scotland. We celebrate this by making sure we use every part of every animal, ensuring no waste, which is wonderful for the integrity of the supply chain and the quality of the meat, but you have to get incredibly creative to find a use for all of the less glamorous parts of our animals.
What’s the atmosphere generally like in your kitchen?
We’re a professional kitchen – there’s order and systems, but there is also a lot of fun. We work together as a team, and every person gets involved in every part of the process, so there is a constant learning cycle for the chefs here that you maybe wouldn’t find in every kitchen. For example, there aren’t many kitchens that would make their own Morteau sausage (one of our signature dishes) – it’s time consuming, but worth every minute.
You’re obviously used to working quite anti-social hours, does this impact on your personal life?
Having worked in the industry since the age of 15, it’s totally normal for me. Of course, it has impacted negatively in the past, but I am very lucky to have a very understanding wife and children, and we try to make the time we spend together really count.
How do you unwind after a shift?
I commute by train, so I unwind by reading a book on the journey, and then pretty much straight to bed when I get home!
How would you describe your cooking away from the restaurant?
Not that dissimilar really in terms of what I like to eat – but I’d just tone it down a bit for home. Essentially it’s the same techniques and similar sort of food – I love a roast!
Finally, what would be your desert island dish?
Braised ox cheek, buttery mash, and a large glass of a decent red is my idea of the perfect meal.
Origin City, 12 West Smithfield, EC1A 9JR
origincity.co.uk
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