London has no shortage of restaurants with breathtaking views, but Bokan, perched atop the Novotel Canary Wharf, manages to combine these vistas with a dining experience that is as artful as it is indulgent. This sky-high venue, with its bar on the 38th floor and restaurant just below on the 37th, offers a striking backdrop for an evening that feels simultaneously intimate and grand.
The journey begins at the bar, a lively spot where the creative energy of the cocktails matches the buzzy atmosphere. ‘Head in the Clouds’ is a standout, a tangy concoction that perfectly complements the panoramic views of the London skyline. It’s the kind of drink that sets the tone for the evening – a playful prelude to the culinary journey ahead.
Descending one flight of stairs to the restaurant, we were immediately struck by the same stunning views that we enjoyed upstairs, now serving as the perfect setting for our meal. Seated at a window table, we took a moment to soak in the glittering expanse of the city before turning our attention to the menu. The staff, warm and welcoming, expertly guided us through the offerings, making us feel both pampered and at ease.
While the seven-course tasting menu was tempting, we opted for the three-course option, drawn by the allure of specific dishes. The meal began with a delightful amuse bouche, followed by starters – a delicate octopus, cooked to perfection and paired with a watermelon steak that provided a surprising but delightful contrast. The citrus wasabi dressing added a vibrant kick, balancing the dish beautifully. Equally impressive was the salmon and John Dory roulade, where the freshness of peas and a hint of spice from the tiger sauce elevated the dish.
For the main course, the grilled stone bass stood out, served in a dashi broth and accented with Japanese daikon radish. The dish was both hearty and refined, showcasing the chef’s ability to marry bold flavours with subtlety. The lamb cannon and rack, accompanied by courgette and aubergine marmalade, was a masterclass in texture and taste – a dish that lingered in memory long after the plates were cleared. A side of creamy mashed potatoes proved to be the perfect comfort alongside these sophisticated mains.
The wine pairings, suggested by a knowledgeable and enthusiastic sommelier, further enhanced our experience. Each glass was chosen with care, complementing the complex flavours of the dishes without overwhelming them.
Dessert at Bokan is an event in itself. The roasted pineapple with Ivorie chocolate, olive oil, and basil ganache was a study in contrasts, the sweet and savoury elements playing off each other in unexpected ways. The passionfruit, araguani chocolate cream, and hazelnut dessert dressed with edible flowers from Bokan’s rooftop garden, meanwhile, was nothing short of divine – a rich, decadent finale to a stellar meal.
Executive Chef Robert Manea, whose pedigree includes stints at The Ledbury and Michelin-starred L’Atelier, brings a deft touch to Bokan’s kitchen, crafting dishes with precision and creativity. The restaurant may not hold a Michelin star, but the quality of the food suggests that it wouldn’t be out of place in such company. Yet, the prices remain accessible, offering exceptional value for a dining experience of this caliber.
bokanlondon.co.uk
Floor 37-39, 40 Marsh Wall, London E14 9T
Good to note: While Bokan is just a short walk from Canary Wharf station, the route can be a bit tricky for first-timers. The easiest way is to take the Jubilee Place exit towards South Quay, across the South Quay Footbridge, then follow South Quay Walk to Marsh Wall. The Novotel, and Bokan within it, will be right there waiting for you – a hidden gem in the heart of London’s Docklands.
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