food + drink Stoke Newington

Wolf/Unstuffy & Fun

What Big Eyes You Have

A bustling Saturday afternoon on Stokey’s High Street, which is awash with all manner of colourful characters. A typical early summer in the city, but for us, ensconced inside this wonderful local eatery, we are being transported to Italy through food of such flavour and authenticity washed down, appropriately, with a fine Italian red. So what did we eat that had such transformative powers? Sampling the brand new brunch menu, I opted for the hake, which came on a bed of butter beans accompanied by wild garlic pesto and agretti (also known as monk’s beard – grassy, slightly salty tasting greens that grow on the sandy shores of the Mediterranean basin). The dish was truly superb, the fish cooked to perfection, enhanced by the silky beans and zinging pesto. My companion meanwhile had chosen strozzapreti with fennel sausage, Tenderstem broccoli and toasted breadcrumbs. The hand-rolled pasta, whose name means ‘priest choker’ in Italian, certainly didn’t have that effect on my companion, with the glistening pork-enriched twirls consumed with unbridled ease. On the day of our visit Wolf seemed to be pulling in the punters, many of whom were happily wading through the cocktail menu. The atmosphere is unstuffy and fun, but the food and drink should be taken very seriously indeed.

Wolf – restaurant
110 Stoke Newington High Street

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