It’s a genius idea. A seafood restaurant dedicated to using unpopular fish, the so-called ‘trash’ of the oceans. When I walk in, I see they’ve taken this approach to sustainability one step further: the site used to be home to a chippie, and they’ve counter-intuitively put the open kitchen in the narrow corridor at the front, on the footprint of the original counter and fryers. Venture further back, where the space opens up, and it’s actually quite glam: white marble tables, moody exposed brickwork and bold blue-hued art on the walls. Lightning is low, the music Mumford & Sons-esque. So far, so good. And, as I sit down, I’m given a huge carafe of tap water, stuffed with folds of thinly sliced cucumber, followed by a dinky bowl of ‘on the house’ tempura seaweed. These are nice touches. The next two dishes – a zingy salad of charred and impossibly tender cuttlefish with pickled tomatoes; ahead of bijoux parcels of sweet cured herring – were magnificent, while the fish pie was sublime. Yes, Trawler Trash is a great concept that’s executed with style. In the loo, you can hear the sound of seagulls cawing, faintly, as if far, far away. If they can continue to match the execution to their idea, this place could just about rule the waves.
205 Upper St, London
020 3637 7619