food + drink Spitalfields

Absurd Bird, Commercial St, E1

Chicken Tonight

Eating deep-fried chicken usually falls in the guilty pleasure category, although you needn’t feel quite so naughty at his particular establishment, since all its poultry are free-range birds from Fosse Meadow Farm. The food is nothing to be ashamed of either – we started with tangy fried pickles and cheesy spinach and artichoke dip with homemade tortillas. My appetite whetted, I went straight for the Deep South classic of chicken and waffles – juicy fillets with a crispy coating sitting on a yeasty waffle, soft and fluffy within its crisp exterior, well it was crisp until I drowned it in the accompanying maple syrup, feeling simultaneously trashy and decadent. My companion was a wing man and tried both the dry, smoked variety and the rather messy but delicious garlic, lemon and Parmesan sauce coated version. As good as all this was, we were glad we hadn’t yielded to the temptation of sides, such as the intriguing sweet potato bake with toasted marshmallows or corn bread pudding. Something to try next time with a crowd, since the gut-busting portions are perfect for sharing – whether in a gang at a large table, or on a date in one of the more intimate booths for two. We did, however, have room for dessert and shared a slab of peanut butter cheesecake. Suitably stuffed, I left feeling a bit like Elvis circa 1975 – which was fine by me, thank you very much.
54 Commercial Street, London, E1 6LT

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