City food + drink

Fetter Lane Restaurant Packs a Punch

28°-50° Fetter Lane

 

A bit like Dr Who’s Tardis, 28°-50° appears tiny from the outside, but wander down the wooden staircase and you are confronted with a glorious space. A bar area leads to an inviting restaurant, with shelves heaving with wine at every turn. In case you were wondering, the unusual name comes from the latitudes within which most of the world’s vineyards are located – that’s how seriously they take their wine. Suffice to say the pairings the sommelier brought us were all fine specimens, but what did come as a surprise was how excellent and well-executed the food was. Our crab and beetroot salads to start could not be faulted, while our mains of rib eye steak and plaice delivered far more than their titles might suggest. The meat was well hung and packed a powerful punch, while the fish came accompanied by butternut purée, kohlrabi, lemongrass and coconut sauce, for an unusual yet perfect balance of flavours.
140 Fetter Lane EC4A 1BT
2850.co.uk/fetter

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