food + drink Old Street

Bone Daddies Restaurant, Old Street

It’s known as the French Paradox – that people in Gascony eat more duck fat than anywhere else, but still live long lives. I mention this as it was a comfort to me as I tucked into Bone Daddies’ crispy duck Aburamen – available exclusively at its Old Street branch. A rich ramen noodle broth with duck fat melted into it, it was as silky and unctuous as it sounds, and balanced by a generous topping of pickled Padron peppers. This dish is worth the trip alone, but the location is another draw, tucked away in the Bower – an oasis of calm just a few steps from Old Street roundabout. We first ate there on a balmy September evening, so the chilled chilli ramen, with chicken mince, cucumber and sesame, seemed like a refreshing choice (along with frozen Yuzu margaritas), but its intensely fiery kick would be equally as welcome on a frosty winter’s night. And if you need further inducement to visit, its branch-exclusive: Kushikatsu skewers – deep-fried breaded meat and veg on sticks, with combos ranging from Iberia ham and roast onion to cheesy Japanese potato salad… time for me to pay another visit. By Kelly Beswick

211 Old Street, EC2A 3AT
bonedaddies.com

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